Gallantry and Criminal Conversation, 2002
Shonibare makes reference to a "Grand Tour", a country outing of noblemen in the 18th century. The costumes are tailored from printed African cloth
Friday
yinke shinobare
Gallantry and Criminal Conversation, 2002
Shonibare makes reference to a "Grand Tour", a country outing of noblemen in the 18th century. The costumes are tailored from printed African cloth
african wax print
The creation of spectacular material using wax is not a new innovation. The method originated in Holland in the 1800’s when a merchant, traveling to Java, saw the people wearing exotic clothing and brought a description of the wax process home. This Holland Wax Fabrics was then introduced to Africa in the 1900’s, was instantly accepted, and has become the most widely used textile.
Working on the theme of African culture and beliefs, the Dutch wax fabrics designed bold and enthralling patterns with predominating bright browns, yellows, and reds. This patterned fabric, now known as the African Wax Print, has received worldwide attention. As the African Dress Style of the nation, it is highly sought after by those in the upper class and are proudly worn as an indication of their sophistication and knowledge of the latest trends in African dress fashion and African fashion design.
To produce this material a wax-resistant dyeing technique is used. A design is drawn onto the material with hot wax after which it is dipped in the dye. The dye does not penetrate the wax. While, originally this was a long process that was done by hand, there are now machines which perform this operation. An additional benefit to the material prepared this way is that the pattern is printed on both sides of the material making it more versatile.
This fabric is breathtaking to behold. Its outstanding beauty cannot be matched and has caught world-wide attention. Fashion shows, which display these amazing creations, are always filled to capacity and have a huge number of sales. The outstanding designs are now being adapted to home and office decorating schemes as well where bright, striking colors are desired.
It requires a great deal of experience and technique to design this material. The designers involved are top of the line and continue to produce outstanding patterns, which appeal to their varied clientele. Many times, they travel to the various areas of Africa to learn about their myths and legends in order to incorporate them into the design elements of the material. The result is that many people can recognize the material as originating from their location.
African women love to wear garments that represent their country and it has become so popular it is now considered the national dress. Whether one is walking along the street or attending a special engagement, the wearer soon becomes the center of attention. Wearing a gown made of these choice fabrics is considered the height of African fashion.
The timeless beauty and quality of the fabric is apparent to anyone with or without knowledge of textiles. The small details bring out the splendor of the larger pattern, which is only enhanced by the brilliant colors. Having a garment made of this fabric is every woman’s dream who wishes to be known as well-attuned to the latest fashion trends on the market.
In Africa Holland Wax Fabrics are in control of the textile market. Having established themselves, over 100 years ago, by accurately interpreting the customs and desires of the people their product is considered a cut above any other textile on the market. This process has captured the desires, wants, and memories of the entire culture and has endeared itself to the African People.
Working on the theme of African culture and beliefs, the Dutch wax fabrics designed bold and enthralling patterns with predominating bright browns, yellows, and reds. This patterned fabric, now known as the African Wax Print, has received worldwide attention. As the African Dress Style of the nation, it is highly sought after by those in the upper class and are proudly worn as an indication of their sophistication and knowledge of the latest trends in African dress fashion and African fashion design.
To produce this material a wax-resistant dyeing technique is used. A design is drawn onto the material with hot wax after which it is dipped in the dye. The dye does not penetrate the wax. While, originally this was a long process that was done by hand, there are now machines which perform this operation. An additional benefit to the material prepared this way is that the pattern is printed on both sides of the material making it more versatile.
This fabric is breathtaking to behold. Its outstanding beauty cannot be matched and has caught world-wide attention. Fashion shows, which display these amazing creations, are always filled to capacity and have a huge number of sales. The outstanding designs are now being adapted to home and office decorating schemes as well where bright, striking colors are desired.
It requires a great deal of experience and technique to design this material. The designers involved are top of the line and continue to produce outstanding patterns, which appeal to their varied clientele. Many times, they travel to the various areas of Africa to learn about their myths and legends in order to incorporate them into the design elements of the material. The result is that many people can recognize the material as originating from their location.
African women love to wear garments that represent their country and it has become so popular it is now considered the national dress. Whether one is walking along the street or attending a special engagement, the wearer soon becomes the center of attention. Wearing a gown made of these choice fabrics is considered the height of African fashion.
The timeless beauty and quality of the fabric is apparent to anyone with or without knowledge of textiles. The small details bring out the splendor of the larger pattern, which is only enhanced by the brilliant colors. Having a garment made of this fabric is every woman’s dream who wishes to be known as well-attuned to the latest fashion trends on the market.
In Africa Holland Wax Fabrics are in control of the textile market. Having established themselves, over 100 years ago, by accurately interpreting the customs and desires of the people their product is considered a cut above any other textile on the market. This process has captured the desires, wants, and memories of the entire culture and has endeared itself to the African People.
Thursday
editorial inspirations
being north african i am always interest in how african fashion and cultures are perceived by the western world; so because i read over 40 magazines a month i found a lot of inspirational shoots with african influence.....
here Lamine has bleached the stretch lycra.Dyed fabric is the fabric, which has been made from the colored fibers. It is colored by substances, which has an affinity to the substrate to the fabric it is applied to. These dyes are obtained from animal, vegetable or mineral origin with no or very little processing.
Animal origin dyes are like Tyrian purple, Kermes, cochineal. Vegetable origin dyes are contributed by safflower, turmeric, indigo, woad, alizarin (madder), logwood, etc. Iron buff is a good example of inorganic dyes.
Mauveine was the first man made organic dye discovered by William Henry Perkin in 1856. Uncountable number of dyes have since then been prepared improving the properties with every attempt. The fastness of the color and its permanency depends upon the dye and the process used.
Types of dyeing process
Acid dye - In this process, water-soluble anionic dyes are applied to fibers from neutral to acid dyebaths. Usually fibers of silk, wool, nylon and modified acrylic are dyed.
Basic dye - Water soluble cationic dyes are applied mainly to acrylic, wool and silk fibers.
Direct (substantive) dye - This process uses either sodium chloride or sodium sulphate in neutral or little alkaline dyebath. Usually cotton, paper, leather, wool, silk and nylon is dyed.
Mordent dye - The process requires the use of mordent (a dyeing substance) to improve the fastness of the dye on the fiber like water, light and perspiration fastness.
Vat dye - This dye is insoluble in water and does not dye fiber directly. Reduction in alkaline liquor gives the water soluble alkali metal salt of the dye. This form dyes the textile fiber.
Reactive dye - This dye contain a reactive group, haloheterocycle or activated double bond. It is applied to the fiber in a weakly alkaline dyebath, which forms a chemical bond with an hydroxyl group on the cellulosic fiber.
Disperse dye - A substantially water insoluble, developed for dyeing cellulose acetate. The dyes are ground finely in the presence of a dispersing agent. It is in the form of paste, spray dried, or powders. It is used to dye nylon, triacetate, polyester and acrylic fibers.
Azoic dye - An insoluble azo dye is produced directly onto or within the fiber in this process. This is achieved by the treatment with a diazo component and a coupling component.
Animal origin dyes are like Tyrian purple, Kermes, cochineal. Vegetable origin dyes are contributed by safflower, turmeric, indigo, woad, alizarin (madder), logwood, etc. Iron buff is a good example of inorganic dyes.
Mauveine was the first man made organic dye discovered by William Henry Perkin in 1856. Uncountable number of dyes have since then been prepared improving the properties with every attempt. The fastness of the color and its permanency depends upon the dye and the process used.
Types of dyeing process
Acid dye - In this process, water-soluble anionic dyes are applied to fibers from neutral to acid dyebaths. Usually fibers of silk, wool, nylon and modified acrylic are dyed.
Basic dye - Water soluble cationic dyes are applied mainly to acrylic, wool and silk fibers.
Direct (substantive) dye - This process uses either sodium chloride or sodium sulphate in neutral or little alkaline dyebath. Usually cotton, paper, leather, wool, silk and nylon is dyed.
Mordent dye - The process requires the use of mordent (a dyeing substance) to improve the fastness of the dye on the fiber like water, light and perspiration fastness.
Vat dye - This dye is insoluble in water and does not dye fiber directly. Reduction in alkaline liquor gives the water soluble alkali metal salt of the dye. This form dyes the textile fiber.
Reactive dye - This dye contain a reactive group, haloheterocycle or activated double bond. It is applied to the fiber in a weakly alkaline dyebath, which forms a chemical bond with an hydroxyl group on the cellulosic fiber.
Disperse dye - A substantially water insoluble, developed for dyeing cellulose acetate. The dyes are ground finely in the presence of a dispersing agent. It is in the form of paste, spray dried, or powders. It is used to dye nylon, triacetate, polyester and acrylic fibers.
Azoic dye - An insoluble azo dye is produced directly onto or within the fiber in this process. This is achieved by the treatment with a diazo component and a coupling component.
Fabric research for Xuly Bet
Lamine kouyate uses a lot of recycled fabrics and garments that he picks up from flea markets and general secondhand stores, he likes to use distressed materials that have a life story to them and a history. my fabric research looks at some of the techniques he uses most commonly, like coating fabrics, weaving and felting etc.
Coated fabric is a flexible composite material formed by applying coating agents to either one side or both sides of the fabric sub state. After the coating it is oven cured creating an interphase between them. Interphase is a mixture formed when the coating agent penetrates into the fabric substate.
The final product after coating and interphasing is solid and flexible. It has a good stability of viscosity. It is washable, flame retardant and is much stronger than uncoated fabrics. The surface can be finished with a specific texture such as leather, or it is left smooth with no texture at all. It is sometimes also embossed in imitation of leather.
Characteristics of Coated Fabric
The final product after coating and interphasing is solid and flexible. It has a good stability of viscosity. It is washable, flame retardant and is much stronger than uncoated fabrics. The surface can be finished with a specific texture such as leather, or it is left smooth with no texture at all. It is sometimes also embossed in imitation of leather.
Characteristics of Coated Fabric
- It is washable.
- It is flame retardant.
- It is mildew resistant.
- It is stronger.
- It is durable.
- It is heavy.
- It is semi-rigid.
- Household Upholstery
- Tarpaulins
- Billboards & Signs
- Wallcoverings
- Automotive and Marine Upholstery
- Luggage
- Pool Liners
- Airbags
- Geotextiles
- Industrial fabrics
Im searching for inspiration and there are a few things that keep popping into my head. Xuly Bet (Lamine)grew up with two different worlds, his home, his heart, his biggest inspiration was senegal, the second world is france, the western lifestyle where he studied and learnt to love.I was so happy when i was given Xuly Bet because as i learnt more i had alot in common with him...his two worlds, Africa and the west. both equally inspiring and yet totally contrasting. this will be my challenge, to really do both justice.
Tuesday
Sunday
XULY BET
This new project is about rediscovering the roots of the designer, and using their key trademarks and true spirt to create something new. my designer i have been given is Lamine Kouyate aka Xuly Bet.
He is......put off by pretension, inspired by his roots (Africa), a recycling fiend, flamboyent with colours and prints, funky and urban. Xuly Bet means 'voyeur', But it isn't just 'a voyeur', It's more than that. Xuly-Bet is someone who tries to break through appearances. In Senegal, the real meaning is 'keep your eyes open.'
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