making a statement
Xuly Bet is about being socially aware and using his status to get across his views and opinions... like viva Obama!
Thursday
here Lamine has bleached the stretch lycra.Dyed fabric is the fabric, which has been made from the colored fibers. It is colored by substances, which has an affinity to the substrate to the fabric it is applied to. These dyes are obtained from animal, vegetable or mineral origin with no or very little processing.
Animal origin dyes are like Tyrian purple, Kermes, cochineal. Vegetable origin dyes are contributed by safflower, turmeric, indigo, woad, alizarin (madder), logwood, etc. Iron buff is a good example of inorganic dyes.
Mauveine was the first man made organic dye discovered by William Henry Perkin in 1856. Uncountable number of dyes have since then been prepared improving the properties with every attempt. The fastness of the color and its permanency depends upon the dye and the process used.
Types of dyeing process
Acid dye - In this process, water-soluble anionic dyes are applied to fibers from neutral to acid dyebaths. Usually fibers of silk, wool, nylon and modified acrylic are dyed.
Basic dye - Water soluble cationic dyes are applied mainly to acrylic, wool and silk fibers.
Direct (substantive) dye - This process uses either sodium chloride or sodium sulphate in neutral or little alkaline dyebath. Usually cotton, paper, leather, wool, silk and nylon is dyed.
Mordent dye - The process requires the use of mordent (a dyeing substance) to improve the fastness of the dye on the fiber like water, light and perspiration fastness.
Vat dye - This dye is insoluble in water and does not dye fiber directly. Reduction in alkaline liquor gives the water soluble alkali metal salt of the dye. This form dyes the textile fiber.
Reactive dye - This dye contain a reactive group, haloheterocycle or activated double bond. It is applied to the fiber in a weakly alkaline dyebath, which forms a chemical bond with an hydroxyl group on the cellulosic fiber.
Disperse dye - A substantially water insoluble, developed for dyeing cellulose acetate. The dyes are ground finely in the presence of a dispersing agent. It is in the form of paste, spray dried, or powders. It is used to dye nylon, triacetate, polyester and acrylic fibers.
Azoic dye - An insoluble azo dye is produced directly onto or within the fiber in this process. This is achieved by the treatment with a diazo component and a coupling component.
Animal origin dyes are like Tyrian purple, Kermes, cochineal. Vegetable origin dyes are contributed by safflower, turmeric, indigo, woad, alizarin (madder), logwood, etc. Iron buff is a good example of inorganic dyes.
Mauveine was the first man made organic dye discovered by William Henry Perkin in 1856. Uncountable number of dyes have since then been prepared improving the properties with every attempt. The fastness of the color and its permanency depends upon the dye and the process used.
Types of dyeing process
Acid dye - In this process, water-soluble anionic dyes are applied to fibers from neutral to acid dyebaths. Usually fibers of silk, wool, nylon and modified acrylic are dyed.
Basic dye - Water soluble cationic dyes are applied mainly to acrylic, wool and silk fibers.
Direct (substantive) dye - This process uses either sodium chloride or sodium sulphate in neutral or little alkaline dyebath. Usually cotton, paper, leather, wool, silk and nylon is dyed.
Mordent dye - The process requires the use of mordent (a dyeing substance) to improve the fastness of the dye on the fiber like water, light and perspiration fastness.
Vat dye - This dye is insoluble in water and does not dye fiber directly. Reduction in alkaline liquor gives the water soluble alkali metal salt of the dye. This form dyes the textile fiber.
Reactive dye - This dye contain a reactive group, haloheterocycle or activated double bond. It is applied to the fiber in a weakly alkaline dyebath, which forms a chemical bond with an hydroxyl group on the cellulosic fiber.
Disperse dye - A substantially water insoluble, developed for dyeing cellulose acetate. The dyes are ground finely in the presence of a dispersing agent. It is in the form of paste, spray dried, or powders. It is used to dye nylon, triacetate, polyester and acrylic fibers.
Azoic dye - An insoluble azo dye is produced directly onto or within the fiber in this process. This is achieved by the treatment with a diazo component and a coupling component.
Fabric research for Xuly Bet
Lamine kouyate uses a lot of recycled fabrics and garments that he picks up from flea markets and general secondhand stores, he likes to use distressed materials that have a life story to them and a history. my fabric research looks at some of the techniques he uses most commonly, like coating fabrics, weaving and felting etc.
Coated fabric is a flexible composite material formed by applying coating agents to either one side or both sides of the fabric sub state. After the coating it is oven cured creating an interphase between them. Interphase is a mixture formed when the coating agent penetrates into the fabric substate.
The final product after coating and interphasing is solid and flexible. It has a good stability of viscosity. It is washable, flame retardant and is much stronger than uncoated fabrics. The surface can be finished with a specific texture such as leather, or it is left smooth with no texture at all. It is sometimes also embossed in imitation of leather.
Characteristics of Coated Fabric
The final product after coating and interphasing is solid and flexible. It has a good stability of viscosity. It is washable, flame retardant and is much stronger than uncoated fabrics. The surface can be finished with a specific texture such as leather, or it is left smooth with no texture at all. It is sometimes also embossed in imitation of leather.
Characteristics of Coated Fabric
- It is washable.
- It is flame retardant.
- It is mildew resistant.
- It is stronger.
- It is durable.
- It is heavy.
- It is semi-rigid.
- Household Upholstery
- Tarpaulins
- Billboards & Signs
- Wallcoverings
- Automotive and Marine Upholstery
- Luggage
- Pool Liners
- Airbags
- Geotextiles
- Industrial fabrics
Im searching for inspiration and there are a few things that keep popping into my head. Xuly Bet (Lamine)grew up with two different worlds, his home, his heart, his biggest inspiration was senegal, the second world is france, the western lifestyle where he studied and learnt to love.I was so happy when i was given Xuly Bet because as i learnt more i had alot in common with him...his two worlds, Africa and the west. both equally inspiring and yet totally contrasting. this will be my challenge, to really do both justice.
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